My feet have been in rock shoes for over 35 years, which means that although my pads are pretty ugly to look at, they are at least tough! For steep crack climbing I enjoy both the Evolv and the Moccasym. The comparison is not an easy one, although when I’m climbing in Joshua Tree in November or April, where the temps can range into the high 70’s or 80’s: I do tend to slip on the Evlov Addict more often than not. The Addict offers a slightly softer feel, along with a wider fit and a low profile toe. Many of my friends have mentioned that the Evolv, ‘Trax’ rubber is not as sticky as they would like, but I have found that as long as I keep the soles of my shoes clean, that they stick just fine. As for cracks, the Addict makes it easy to stuff my mangled toes into a wide variety of cracks. Joshua Tree rock has a value of 40 grit sandpaper, which helps the ‘Trax’ Rubber stick to almost any route, and with a price under $100 bucks, the Evolv are pretty hard to beat!
A few years ago, my friend Leon and I flew to Spain and climbed in the Alicante area. The limestone routes along the coast were so much fun that neither of us managed much sleep. During our 15-day tour, we managed to climb just over 25,000 vertical feet of sport and trad. In Spain, I opted for an aggressive edging shoe and my Moccasym. The Moccs offered me an unbelievably soft and comfortable fit. The lack of laces or Velcro also helped with keeping my feet free of sand at the beach crags of Aliconte. I had purchased a brand new pair for Spain and I was grateful when our time ended that I did. The Moccs stretched both in width and length, I felt that the heel could be of lower volume as well. As for edging, I knew from my past experiences with the Moccs that they would come up short, the design is too flat-lasted and the toe box is a tad rounded. Spain may not have been the best test for a crack shoe such as this, but we were heading to Chamonix after Spain and my rucksack was already bursting with ice tools and mountain boots! All in all, if you buy a pair of Five Ten, Moccasym, buy them small and let them fit to your foot. On gym, granite, or limestone, Moccs are hard to beat!
Reviewer: Lou Renner, International Mountain and Climbing Guide for 30 years and Contributing MyClimb Writer