Trad and gym climbers from around the globe all have their ‘go-to’ rock shoes, mine right now are the Scarpa Reflex. Over the past few years I have had a few minor injuries, sore shoulders, tweaked elbows and what felt like a hot fire-poker in my neck. This summer I put in several long gym climbing sessions and bruised my big toe by climbing in too small shoes. Anyway it hurt so bad that I couldn’t squeeze my foot into a pair of rock shoes for all the tea in china. The cure was simple, rest the toe and find a pair of rock shoes that were slightly big, a tad stiff and comfortable enough that I could hold a big edge.
The Scarpa Reflex did the trick. I slid my slightly big toe into a pair and I was off climbing again.
Now, with the Fall, rock season nearly over and my toe healed, I find myself grabbing for my trusty Scarpa’s. They edge just fine, the double Velcro closures synch my foot plenty snug, and the suede uppers are soft but tough enough for jamming into wide cracks. I tend to clean the soles of my shoes before heading out each day and have found that the Reflex TAC 100 rubber offers ample sensitivity up to mid range 5.11 and all – day comfort.
My foot is healed now, thanks to a bit of rest and to my Scarpa Reflex rock shoes.
-Bill Brooks and Lou Renner, MyClimb Team