The La Sportiva, Mythos is perhaps the most versatile and comfortable, all-day crack and trad shoe on the market. The patented lacing system tweaks the fit to perfect, while the soft, unlined, leather uppers stretch to mold to the contours of your feet for top performance. For crack climbing, Mythos offer a low-toe profile, which allows the sloping shape of the toe box to slot into thin cracks easily. Sportiva’s, 4mm vibram XS Edge rubber sticks like glue when you’re smearing and the rands are perforated to allow for extra comfort.
The only drawbacks that I have noticed are on thin edging routes. After much wear or resoling, the Mythos become a tad soft. So, they become better for friction, less so, for thin edging. Some have mentioned that they had too much room in the heal, although my foot fits perfect! The lacing system helps allow room for different socks for warmth or comfort as well as foot room adjusts for heat or altitude foot swelling.
Extremely comfortable, great for all day, ultra-classics!
A few years ago, my husband and I set out for an attempt at four formations in Eldorado Canyon in a single day. We started out with the steep Ament route on the Redgarden Wall, then stemmed up The Clemintine Arete on the Whales Tail, ate some lunch and then flashed the Bastile Crack on the Bastile Formation. Our day ended with an ascent of the classic Calipso Route on the Wind Tower. 27 pitches in 6.5 hours. The overall grade of our four peak link-up was 5.8 with several semi-run out bits thrown in for good measure.
Wearing my mythos, I never once felt sketched even when I had to equalize two brass nuts before pulling the crux bulge on the Ament Route. As for comfort, the Mythos are hard to beat, I’m not saying that I would go to dinner wearing them, but I never had to take them off on route, or for lunch! Mythos have been around since 1991 and except for colors they have not changed. As an artist, I know when one of my oil paintings is complete and when it is time to put down my brush. La Sportiva’s design of the Mythos is a thing of beauty and they knew not to add a single stitch to a climbing shoe that is already a Mona Lisa.
Reviewer: Maggie Renner Hellmann, Climber for 25 years and Contributing MyClimb Writer